I L O V E linens, old new and anything in between. I look for blank canvases on which I can embroider. I look for old tablecloths, new tablecloths, I have a closet for just for linens. My name is and I'm addicted... I saw this blank canvas at Martha Pullen's School of Art Fashion in Huntsville several years ago. I had to have it. I mean HAD to have it. The drawn thread work on the piece was amazing. They've just had another event, so the webstore is a bit low.. but check it out periodically. You won't be sorry. Click HERE to be transported to her heirloom emporium.
Regrettably, I have no clue from whom this design is. Is it a Jenny Haskins design? Is it a Zundt? We've been in this house now 18 months and the embroidery designs are still in a box. I think I'll have to remedy that PDQ!!!
I used a heavy weight iron away stabilizer. The kind that is milky white and almost clear. I like to use this because there is no residue on the back. Wherever the iron touches, the stabilizer is removed. Where the iron doesn't touch it (ie. within the design itself) the stabilizer stays.
I always test the embroidery on the same fabric or one that is similar with the stabilizer and threads I intend to use. This gives a realistic piece on which to assess the finished piece. Is it too stiff - then lower the stitch density of your design (software or a machine with design editing capabilities required). Is the coverage adequate - once again adjust the stitch density. Are the fibers on the blank pulled - re-evaluate your stabilizer, it's probably not heavy enough to hold the weight of the stitches. Can you see needle holes, don't use the largest needle on the market. I prefer Organ needles because they have a needle eye one size larger than the size indicated thus providing less strain on your thread. I prefer rayon embroidery threads for delicate items because it is a natural fiber and the shine is amazing. I tend to gravitate towards Madeira threads.
I always print out or use the supplied design template for placement. I mark the north on the template and then trim the template directly outside the motif. I then place the motif on the fabric and mark the center and horizontal and vertical centers so that I can properly hoop both the stabilizer and the fabric.
Always iron your finished product wrong side up with the embroidered motif on a towel. This will leave the stitches raised. When you press on the right side, do not iron over the motif. Come up to it and then maneuver around the design.
I also do not put my linens away starched and ironed. It keeps the bugs away and with no starch in the fibers, the bends are kinder on the fabric. Ironing tip: place the damp piece in a plastic bag in the refrigerator overnight. This ensures that you will be ironing on icy cold fabric the next day. Use a hot iron and you probably won't need any starch!
Thanks for dropping by. Your visits delight me, your comments are my blessings.
4 comments:
Marlis, The embroidery on that piece is magnificent! I like to buy linens when I am out thrifting. I may not always find things in the very best of condition, but there is something about them that just calls to me. A few loose threads and tiny little holes don't bother me at all. But this piece is lovely. Great tips about storage and ironing. All of my linens are ironed and hanging on padded hangers right now. Next time I use them, I won't press them until needed. Thanks for the info.
~ Sue
Beautiful piece! The quality of your work is awesome.
Thank you for visiting my new blog and leaving such kind comments. Ginger
Just spectacular! Were they Jenny Haskins or Zundt?
Sue Box embroidery designs.. Borders... How could I leave out Sue Box.. her designs are phenomenal!
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